Vietnam by the Numbers

Delicious pork-based meals consumed: 20+

Delicious pork-based meals that were bun cha: 10+

Items of bespoke clothing purchased: 3

Animals seen: 10 or so (easily the fewest of my entire trip)

Entombed heads of state briefly glimpsed: 1

World Heritage sites admired: 2

Instances in which I was run over by a four-door sedan: 1

Packages of Oreos and Ritz crackers offered as recompense for being run over by a taxi: 4

Weeks for burns to heal: 4

Weeks for puncture wound to heal: 7

Major sightseeing trips canceled due to injuries: 2 (see you next time, Sapa and Halong Bay!)

Total money spent: $1,468.40

Number of days in the country: 28

Average amount spent per day: $52.44

Total money spent, minus the hospital costs: $1,026.30

Average amount spent per day, minus the hospital costs: $36.65

New friends made: 6

Old friends happily re-met by chance: 2

Reasons to go back and see more, uninjured this time: 100+

hue bike traditional hat

Cambodia by the Numbers

Ancient temples clambered upon: 14

Times the A/C went out at my guesthouse in Siem Reap, on days when it was 90% humidity and 90*F out: 5

Times I said “oh my god” in horror at Choeung Ek and S-21: 15

Times I said “oh my god” in wonder at Angkor: 15

Teenagers who chatted with me over a couple hours of lunch: 3

Water bottles purchased so those same teenagers wouldn’t lose their day’s earnings: 3

Fish spas undergone: 1

Contented pizzas consumed: 3

Friends who I first met in Laos and then had meals with in Cambodia: 4

Total money spent: $706

Number of days in the country: 11

Average amount spent per day: $64.18

Total money spent, minus the flight from Laos: $514

Average amount spent per day, minus the flight from Laos: $46.73

Times I nearly passed out from the heat: 3

Times I complained about the heat, then and since: innumerable

Seconds I’d take to consider going back and seeing more of this country: 5

Embracing the sunrise

Mid-Michigan Humor

My friends and I didn’t drink in high school, but we found plenty of other ways to amuse ourselves. If we could annoy some adults while we were at it, all the better. So for a little while we liked playing Liberation Lettuce, named after a head of iceberg lettuce we found in the socks section of our local superstore one day. We decided someone had liberated that lettuce from captivity in the produce section, and we wanted to free other grocery store items too. Move socks next to the cheese. Shift some Sharpies over to the contact lens section. It was silly, and hopefully we never moved enough stuff to make the employees’ jobs harder. But a couple weeks ago, I saw an inspired example of Liberation Lettuce, which brought the game to new heights. Whoever you are, chocolate sauce aficionado, I salute you.

And it's on sale!

And it’s on sale!

Laos by the Numbers

New friends made over a big do-it-yourself hot pot meal: 3

Pick-up badminton games observed: 8

Laotian wedding karaoke performances stumbled upon: 1

Meals that made me cry from the spice level: 1

Bears seen playing in the bear rescue center: 2

Bears seen napping through the heat in the bear rescue center: 4

Monks and novices spotted: 56

Conversations with novices: 3

Boats used for transportation: 4

Buddha statues seen: 4,034

Total days spent in Laos: 10

Total money spent: $562.79

Average per day: $56.28

Total money spent, minus gifts: $341.04

Average per day, minus gifts: $34.10

Shifts volunteered at Big Brother Mouse: 3

Meals shared with students from Big Brother Mouse: 1

Total days I could easily have spent in Laos, given more time: 40

Good morning!

Good morning!

A Siem Reap Backpacker’s Spa Night

There are probably some really nice spas in Siem Reap, Cambodia (entrance to the wonders of Angkor), but I’m on a budget, so I made my own spa experience while I was there.

First, I put on just the right amount of scent:

Eau de DEET

Eau de DEET

Then I went down to the classy tourist area of town:

Yes, that's a neon sign reading "Pub Street" not 10 miles from the majesty of Angkor Wat

Yes, that’s a neon sign reading “Pub Street” not 10 miles from the majesty of Angkor Wat

I didn’t want my skin to end up scaly like these guys:

Get these dudes some lotion

Get these dudes some lotion

So I went to this spa, where a hundred attentive employees went to work on my feet and calves, until I felt tingly and revitalized:

The sign on the tank reads, "Please feed our hungry fish your dead skin"

The sign on the tank reads, “Please feed our hungry fish your dead skin”

It was a little alarming to see just how much dead skin there was for them to eat

It was a little alarming to see just how much dead skin there was for them to eat

(I am totally aware that these fish tanks aren’t exactly the most hygienic things around, but I seem to still be standing, so I guess it turned out okay.)

After all that, it was time for a healthy drink or two with friends:

I've had too many close calls on St. Patrick's Day not wearing green and getting pinched for it--I wasn't going to risk it, even in Cambodia

I’ve had too many close calls on St. Patrick’s Day not wearing green and getting pinched for it–I wasn’t going to risk it, even in Cambodia

Out with Viv and Russ from Australia

Out with Viv and Russ from Australia

Total cost: about $8. You can make your own spa night too!

Beverage Service Not Included

Storage space was limited on the train

Storage space was limited on the train, apparently

The train from Poland to Hungary was perfectly pleasant, once I moved out of the car with the busted A/C. I ate a lunch I’d packed wrote in my journal. Judging by these empties found in the bathroom sink onboard, other passengers were passing the time differently.

Then I got to Budapest and saw an elderly woman holding up a “rooms for rent” sign negotiating price with a mohawked man, and a woman in a spangly shirt sweeping out the train, presumably before going clubbing. I liked it right away.

Thailand by the Numbers

Attempts to say ‘thank you’ in Thai before I got remotely close: 23

Attempts to bargain at night markets: 8

Successful attempts to bargain at night markets: 5

Elephants hand-fed: 10

Baby monkeys cooed at: 1

Fruit shakes consumed: at least 30

Laundry I washed myself during my six weeks in the country: 0

Meals I cooked myself during my six weeks in the country: 2

Oceans fearlessly kayaked in: 1

New fruits tasted: 5

New favorite fruits: 5

Meals that introduced a whole new meaning to the word ‘spicy’: 3

Total days spent in Thailand: 44

Total money spent: $2,947

Average per day: $67

Total money spent, not including airfare: $2,802

Average daily cost, not including airfare: $64 (yes, that is much more than many backpackers spend while there, but I got a lot of gifts and some comfortable private rooms, not to mention a week with the elephants, on that budget)

Pools, rivers, and oceans swum in: 3

Wats (temples) visited: countless

Times I tired of admiring the symmetry and detail of a Thai wat: never

Wat Po

Wat Po in Bangkok

Spot the Ninja

Most people took pictures of this guy after we disembarked in the neighborhood of Asakusa, and he started posing with his sword drawn. But I spotted him while the boat was docking and loved the idea–completely false but still fun–that this area of Tokyo was guarded by a ninja, invisible until he’s needed and always standing ready to defend his turf.

spot the ninja tokyo

Wacky Tokyo

It’s been awhile since I’ve done a “look at the funny stuff I’m seeing” post, and yes, this one includes a funny anglicization or two. I’ve loved my time in Tokyo. I’ve been fortunate enough to stay with a generous host and her adorable child, and I’ve had great weather that makes every park, shrine, and neon-lit street a pleasure to explore. Also, I keep coming across the funny, wacky sights that every big city offers up. On Wednesday, I leave Tokyo for London–what weird and wonderful things will I see there?

That's "Dragon Tacos" to you

That’s “Dragon Tacos” to you

This guy took all the symbols and letters that mean "internet" and decided that they needed to go on his car.

This guy took all the symbols and letters that mean “internet” and decided that they needed to go on his car.

Rude!

Rude!

Hipster on a t-shirt

Hipster distilled to a t-shirt

It's a bakery, but really what they're selling is the smell

It’s a bakery, but really what they’re selling is the smell

Harajuku fashion shoot

Harajuku fashion shoot

Strolling with a rabbit, like ya do

Strolling with a rabbit, like ya do

Tea time with Darth & Leia

Tea time with Darth & Leia on the subway

New Zealand by the Numbers

Hot spring rivers frolicked in: 2

Sights that made me say “wow”: at least 12

Sheep spotted: ~100,000

Cows spotted: ~80,000

Glaciers hiked: 1

Couches surfed: 8

Times I had no idea what vowel a Kiwi was using while talking: at least 9

Concussions sustained: 2

Road trips enjoyed: 3

Radio stations picked up on entire 8 weeks in the country: 2

Times I heard the inexplicably popular song “Maneater” on those radio stations: 9

Number of different tracks off the 12-track “Jagged Little Pill” I heard on those same radio stations: 6

Total days spent in New Zealand: 55

Total money spent: $3,965

Average per day: $72

Christmas carols sung at full volume while driving through the mountains: 8

Carols we knew more than the first verse to: 0

Dolphins swum with: at least 30, possibly more; magic is hard to quantify

milford blues