The Cutty Sark, London, England; July 17, 2015
Tag Archives: England
Sunrise, Sunset
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Sunrise, Sunset
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Where in the World Wednesday
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A Day Out at Wimbledon
Bright green grass, bright white outfits. Ivy-covered walls. Crowds getting slightly noisy until the ump issues a gentle “Quiet, please.” A fault, an ace, a thrilling return, the cheer of the crowd. For as long as I can remember, my family has watched at least some of the TV coverage of the Wimbledon championships held over two weeks in late June and early July. This year, I was determined to see it live. I promised my family I’d go for all of us–and it was such fun, and so full of good tennis, that I think I did them proud.
You can get tickets to Wimbledon one of only a few ways: getting debenture tickets (I guess this is being part of a company that gives a lot of money to the All England Lawn Tennis Club); being part of certain tennis clubs; putting your name in a ballot for a set number of show court tickets; and queuing. The AELTC emphasizes that they consider this the most fair way to distribute tickets, because there is always much more demand than supply, so they make it a lottery and then a first-come-first-served situation. (Aside from the debentures, tennis clubs, and other rich people ways of getting tickets.)
Liz has been to Wimbledon five times, so she was my guide. On the first morning of the championships, we woke up far earlier than either of us would ever choose to on our own, got two tubes, and walked with the crowd up the high street of Wimbledon (the area of London) to Wimbledon (the park). We joined the queue, which followed the border of the park for a while, skirting around the cars being parked in one area, and looking enviously just over the fencing at the people moving toward the front of the queue already. We walked past a TV show setting up for filming, two newspaper stands offering a paper “with full order of play!” and a goody bag, at least three film crews, and a greyhound charity. By the time we reached the food stand and toilet areas, my senses were already overwhelmed.
We were given a queue card, along with strict instructions to hold on to that queue card for dear life, as it would grant us entrance to the front of the queue, which might grant us access to the ticket booth–depending on how many people they could fit in the grounds. I heard one man ask a steward if he could guarantee he would get in, and the steward replied, “Well, I can’t promise anything, I can’t give an exact time. Because then I could be wrong, and then it could get emotional. And we don’t like that.” Which is possibly the most English thing I’ve ever heard. We got tickets 7900 and 7901, and the steward mentioned that usually the first 8000 cards got in. Lucky that we weren’t any later, then! This was 7:36 am.

How do you cosplay at a sporting event? Dress in your tennis whites, with that John McEnroe headband action going on
It was a hot and sunny day, so we slathered on sunscreen in the fierce morning light, after which we ate breakfast from the food we’d cleverly brought. I immediately lay down and dozed, waking only to stand up and shuffle along with the crowd to a different spot in the field, part of a complicated organizational scheme to keep the queue orderly and moving along. We moved to our new spot and sat down again, behind the middle-aged English ladies doing the crossword and in front of the Greek man who had been coming to Wimbledon for years and was telling his son all about it. To our left were the tents; that’s right, you can camp out to be sure you’re ahead of most people. People had camped out over the weekend to get first day tickets, and the people who we saw in tents now were camping out all day Monday to get Tuesday tickets to see Andy Murray. Fair enough–if you’re early enough in the queue, you can buy show court tickets, whereas I knew I wasn’t getting anything but grounds tickets. I admired their commitment and felt for them, tied to their tents except for bathroom breaks and food runs in this intense heat.

After we were moved to the other side of the giant field, ready to advance in the queue after another couple hours (note the tents on the left)
At about noon, our part of the queue got up one last time and walked to the front part of the queue–still a park’s length away from the actual grounds of the tennis club. If Liz hadn’t been there, I would have despaired I’d ever get in, or ever understand what was going on. We walked along a heavily HSBC branded section, drank some free squash, went through the security checks, and finally, finally crossed the overpass over the main road to get to the ticket booth. We got in at just after 1 pm.
But I mean, that’s all part of the experience. My feeling once I was in the grounds was the same; I was here to be with a bunch of people who liked tennis and liked the quirks and traditions of this particular tournament. I wasn’t here to see a particular match or make a fashion statement or spot royalty or anything (good thing, since I did none of those things). Sitting in the queue, I read a book, napped, watched a bee try to turn the pages of a book, chatted with Liz, ate a picnic lunch–basically had a nice morning in the park. Once in the grounds, I was ready to see whatever was available.
After inspecting the big board that displayed the order of play, Liz suggested we find Court 19, where we could see the latter part of a men’s doubles match. I love doubles; there’s much more going on than in singles, and my favorite shots at net are much more common. We watched from one side for a bit, then ran around to the other side of the court and scooted into front-row seats during one of the short breaks in play. Front-row seats for a match at Wimbledon! Who cares it’s not a show court, I was at risk of being beaned by a tennis ball going over 100 miles per hour–that’s the important thing.
We watched Sam Groth nearly give himself apoplexy whenever he or his partner Sergiy Stakhovsky missed a shot, and eventually they lost to third-seeded Vasek Popisil and Jack Sock (who looks eerily like Doug Dorsey of The Cutting Edge, which got me to idly wondering if he and Popisil were in their own reimagining of Taming of the Shrew).

This was the only job I saw this man perform. Hold an umbrella for shade. Liz says he also did grounds thing, but I’m pretty sure he’s just an umbrella holder.
The way the courts are set up on this side of Centre Court, you have a little privacy from one court to the next, but not much. On the other side, there’s none at all, and if you’re not careful, a badly hit ball could go into another match just across the aisle. I marveled at how this place I’m used to thinking of as rarefied and grand is actually, of course, a functioning tennis club most of the time, where people simply play games and work on their serve. I’m used to seeing the show courts on TV, but that’s only a very few; there are many more out there that you can literally wander past on your way to get an ice cream.
Our next match, between Sara Errani (seeded 19) and Francesca Schiavone, was wonderful to watch not just for the play, but for the fact that they’re both Italians and this meant most of the crowd was Italian, calling out “Brava!” at a good shot and generally being a little more enthusiastic than your average crowd. Schiavone was great to see, going for broke on every shot and surprising most of us when she pushed it to a third set. At one point, she nailed a beautiful drop shot, and as we cheered, she ran over from the net and touched the cheek of someone in the crowd, this tender but triumphant gesture to a stranger.

Henman Hill or Murray Mound, depending on what generation you are. A place to sit and watch whatever match is deemed exciting enough to be put on the big screen.
Feeling a bit wiped from the sun and the excitement, we retreated to one of the two food courts before venturing out again. We walked around the whole of the grounds and dropped in on several matches here and there. I love that you can just do that. We refilled our water bottles for probably the fourth time that day, and reapplied sunscreen again. We walked by Henman Hill, where the large TV screen shows whatever match is most exciting at the moment, so the people picnicking or just resting can still see tennis. I got a good dose of the wandering and soaking up the atmosphere I’d been hoping for.
At about 6 pm, our paths diverged; Liz’s dad joined her and they went to watch a match at Court 7, while I stood in a short queue for a resale ticket and went to Court 2. If you see a match at the show court and then leave, they encourage you to have your ticket scanned when you leave so that they can resell that ticket to someone already in the grounds. All those monies go to charity, and people with grounds tickets can see matches after 3pm in the show courts. I paid an extra £5 (my original ticket was £25) and got a seat in Court 2–as it turns out, a really good seat nearly at the center and pretty far down the stands.
I watched Alison Riske play Lucie Safarova (seeded 6), and this turned out to be another good match where the higher seeded player had to fight harder than she expected to get her victory. Riske pushed it to three sets, and she won several of the challenges she used on shots, whereas I don’t think Safarova won any of hers. Despite all that, Safarova won, much to the delight of the Czech man in the stands behind me (who tried to wave a giant Czech Republic flag only to be told by a steward that this violated the rules and he’d have to put it away–this is why it always looks so orderly on TV, because those stewards have sharp eyes out for any rules infractions).
I squinted at the court in the setting sun and listened to the agreeable thwack of the ball and the less agreeable intimidation screeches of the players. I looked to the TV cameras in the media booth and wondered if my mom would see me on her screen back home. Bright green grass, bright white outfits. I smiled under my sun hat and sipped my Pimm’s cup; I’d had a day out at Wimbledon.
Where in the World Wednesday
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#EndAusterityNow Demo in London
I got a rush on Saturday that I hadn’t felt in years, the kind I get when I’m in a large action with other people, all of us united for a common cause. I’ve been traveling around for the last three years, so I haven’t been in the kind of protests I joined in Chicago or my hometown. It felt good to join in with tens of thousands of people (estimates range from 70,000 to 250,000) and raise our voices on behalf of the many. And the many were saying–forget austerity, embrace true prosperity for all.
Austerity in Britain has had the usual effect of making the poor poorer and the rich richer, and the new cuts to social programs being proposed and implemented now will drastically change the fabric of British society, in a way that we Americans have a hard time understanding, because the Brits started with more than we’ve ever won for ourselves. To lose these social programs is truly devastating.
I marched with friends in the National Union of Teachers block, which had the benefit of putting me in a group that I’m entirely comfortable with and fully supportive of (pretty much everyone I know is a teacher), and putting me right near the start of the march. By the time we walked the 2.5 miles from Bank in the City of London to Parliament Square in the City of Westminster, some people at the back had barely made it past the starting point.

None of the major political parties is officially anti-austerity. Everyone’s buying into the big lie. Except the Greens, bless ’em (and possibly SNP as well).
We stood pretty near the stage in Parliament Square and listened to an impressive succession of short speeches. The organizers kept the people talking to a maximum of three minutes each, and everyone was on-message about how these cuts would hurt the most needy of society, and how the Conservatives won the election but they hardly have a mandate for austerity, and how we all need to keep up the pressure to change these harmful policies before they get any farther. (Not to mention they want to ax the Human Rights Act and re-fund the nuclear weapons program, which is so impossibly backwards it must be the premise to a dystopian sci-fi novel.)
Over and over, they reminded us that it wasn’t the nurses and teachers who created the financial crisis, it was the bankers. It’s not the millionaires who need these programs, it’s the disabled, the domestic violence victims, the hungry. And it’s not the UK that’s going to thrive in austerity, it’s the bankers and millionaires.
I live tweeted some of the speeches, so most of these I don’t have proper attribution–I wasn’t familiar with all the speakers so I don’t remember all their names.
‘We’re the 6th richest nation on the planet, don’t tell me we can’t afford the NHS’

People used to shout “Maggie, Maggie, Maggie” “Out, Out, Out!” at anti-Thatcher demos in the ’80s. Today, a simple “Tory, Tory, Tory” will get the same response.
‘If you make our lives unbearable, we will make this society ungovernable’
‘If they thought they won the war with austerity on May the 8th, they need to think again’
‘They were worried about that building crumbling [pointing to the Houses of Parliament]. I’m more worried about democracy crumbling.’ Caroline Lucas
‘It looks to me like socialism is far from an anachronism. It’s back in fashion. Keep fighting, this is just the beginning’
‘David Cameron, you are wrong. This is what I call an opposition!’

I love this way of phrasing it–it gets to the idea of how undemocratic this election result was (24% of the popular vote is no majority)
‘Our victory will be your victory’ message from Greece
‘If you think the rich should pay their taxes, shout as loud as you can’
‘I’m proud to be British because of our national health service, our welfare system, and David Bowie’ Charlotte Church
‘Austerity is about divide and rule. It’s about destroying the things that give us our humanity so the powerful can stay in power’ Francesca Martinez
We left during Jeremy Corbyn’s speech (he’s the only candidate for Labour leader who’s anti-austerity–vote accordingly!), because you know, after several hours marching and rallying, nature does call. (Apparently I missed Owen Jones and Russell Brand, both of whom I wouldn’t mind seeing sometime.)
So the final speech I heard in full was from Francesca Martinez, a comedian I’m not familiar with but definitely want to hear more of. Her speech was my favorite. She celebrated the social programs of Britain as examples of humanity at its best, and she decried the actual evil of those who want to cut them down to nothing as part of a program to fix an economy that those same people in power broke in the first place with their banking schemes. We must fight for these programs in a fight for our better selves and a better humanity. She said, ‘Every one of us has a duty to each other to protect what is beautiful about being human.’ I can’t think of a better way to phrase why I went on the demo on Saturday–and why I’ll go to more.
Where in the World Wednesday
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Where in the World Wednesday
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To Battle!
“Let’s go to battle,” Liz said to me. I looked at her askance. As far as I knew, we were not in a fight. Also, she’s a trained fencer and I am not, so she has an unfair advantage if we’re battling. “No,” she said, “Battle, the town built up around the site where the Battle of Hastings took place.” Aha.
The year 1066 is famous in Britain for being the last time England was invaded. Duke William of Normandy came across the Channel, killed King Harold at the Battle of Hastings, and shortly thereafter assumed the crown as King William I of England. He commissioned the Domesday Book, which was the earliest extensive listing of property distribution in the Western world. He spent most of his reign back in France, and left England to his second son upon his death. I sometimes wonder if this is the root of animosity between France and England; England’s thinking, “You conquered us and then couldn’t even be bothered to stay?”
Liz and I took the train down from London, and then made lots of jokes about “striding into Battle” as we walked from the station up to to the English Heritage site. It was fine weather when we were there, but of course it had rained earlier in the day, so our walk around the battlefield was utterly muddy.
The battlefield is just that, a field that slopes up to the ruins of the abbey that William built as atonement for the bloodshed that took place there. There’s a path around the field, with plaques along the way that lead you in chronological order through the battle. I also used the audio guide from the visitor’s center, which was excellent.
We squelched around the battlefield and did a little fake fighting (I was on the losing side–told you she’s a fencer), and then we walked around the abbey. Built as it was on a hillside, the abbey had some odd heights inside it, where the farther up the hill you went, the lower down the ceilings were. I would have thought architects would have compensated for that, but no matter, it just made the ruins a little more mysterious.
After we strode victoriously out of Battle, we took the train down to Hastings, which was a larger town than I’d expected. I walked to the ocean’s edge to put my fingers in the water, and managed to soak my shoes through, making that the second time that day they’d been soaked through.
But never mind that, or the fact that the funicular closed just a few minutes before we got there. Because there was a tiny train, and the tiny train was still running. We gave our money to the kid whose mom ran the train, and then took a comically short ride along the waterfront that was part working docks and part gussied-up tourist attraction.
We ended up near the old town, and found that there was a sort of traveling music show going on. We picked a pub, grabbed a drink, and watched as different acts came through for 20-minute performance slots, before they moved on to the next participating pub. It was mostly folk or new folk,and pretty good, but one woman stood out as sounding like a new Sandy Denny. The whole pub hushed as she sang part of her set a cappella, and it was almost a disappointment when the instruments joined in to back her up. That was a lucky find.
Hastings being a major fishing town, clearly we had to have fish and chips for dinner. But most places were either shut for the night or full to bursting with the music fest crowd. Finally, we found a mom and pop place, and sat down to a good meal served by the most distracted servers I’ve ever encountered. We worked out that they were trying to close for the night, but they kept letting customers in. I wanted to share with them the secret that if they wanted to close, they had to turn people away. Advanced Restaurateuring, right there.



























































