Hello dearest fellow travelers. Here’s something new! I thought I’d start a feature that rounds up some of the best and worst of the political/cultural news I run across each week, so you can get even further inside my brain without getting too Malkovich about it. And since usually the good and bad news is still news and therefore always kind of a downer, how about a silly element on the end of it? Something lighthearted, cheerful, adorable, or otherwise Unserious. If you’re already reading blogs with a political or cultural slant, probably you’re running into similar features, and maybe you won’t find much new here. But maybe you will, and then you will feel enlightened. Also, you can put links to other interesting articles in the comments and this blog will become a veritable font of information.
So here we go — the inaugural The Good, The Bad, and The Silly!
This time, it was a message of quityerbitchin. I was driving my it-probably-cost-more-to-fix-this-than-the-car-is-actually-worth-but-I-fixed-it-anyway car back to Chicago from Michigan, and I was late for a concert that I most definitely did not want to be late for. I’d had a wonderful, relaxing weekend, but the car costs and coming work week were creeping back into my consciousness. I’d run into two bouts of seriously bad traffic already and was coming up on another one, and I was shouting in frustration.
And then two in a row, courtesy of 97.1 The Drive: “Long Way Home” and “Take It Easy.” Okay, fine.
Turns out I was even early for the concert, and I sang along to the radio the whole way there.
The Pitchfork Music Festival is in its fifth year, and I’ve been to four of them, so you could say that I’m pretty into it. I don’t actually read the main Pitchfork site all that much, since I can’t seem to get into the writing style of most of their critics, but every time I do head over there, I’m greeted with about 150 artists I’ve never heard of, about 40 of whom I’m likely to really enjoy. Those are some good numbers right there! Pitchfork is at the forefront of making music groups of all sizes and levels of fame more available to the Internet masses, and that’s a great service. These efforts culminate in the annual music fest, which takes place at Union Park in Chicago, IL over the course of three hot summer days.
I worked all day Friday and went straight to the park, just in time to hear the energizing opening chords of Robyn‘s set. This woman is fantastic! She writes or co-writes all her songs, and what songs! Upbeat, perfectly danceable love songs. I put one up yesterday (sorry, I didn’t realize the sound was so bad). Here’s another:
I chose these videos in particular because they’re from Friday’s performance; you can see how much joy she finds in dancing and singing and inviting everyone else to do the same. When she started those wide-flung arm movements, it looked like she took the dancing we do in front of the mirror and put it on stage, as if to say, “Look, just move your body any way you want!” I followed that suggestion so well that a photographer started snapping pictures of me, I suppose because I looked so into the music. But really, when you’re dancing and singing along wholeheartedly, you don’t exactly look photogenic; you look goofy. So if you see a photo out there of me looking like this…
After watching Michael Showalter‘s painful on-stage breakdown, I thought about going back to Broken Social Scene, but then Eugene Mirman came on and killed. I think my favorite part was that he was making pro-choice jokes that were actually funny. That’s exactly what we need, is someone reminding people that abortion is something you can talk about and even make jokes about, because hey, it’s a real thing in this world and not just a political flashpoint. (Does my choice of the word “killed” earlier ring a little untasteful in this context? Oops. Oh well, I’m keeping it. Oops, there, I did it again!)
I wandered in late on Saturday, but I was in time to see Wolf Parade rock out most wonderfully. I like on-stage banter if it’s done well, but sometimes I just want to hear the music. Spencer Krug seems to feel the same way; after their first song or two, he said, “We’re not going to talk much, we’re just going to play as much music as we can in the hour they gave us.” Worked for me. Similarly, LCD Soundsystem barely paused between songs but just played one driving beat after another, while James Murphy wailed melodically on top. I didn’t stop moving for over an hour.
And finally, Sunday, which was definitely the most humid of these very hot and humid days. So it was with great pleasure that I laid back and listened to two bands perfectly suited to a lazy summer day — Girls and Beach House. Girls have a jangly sort of sound, and a singer who sounds like Elvis Costello and looks like Darryl Zero:
I heard a bit of Surfer Blood and Local Natives both, but the crowd at that stage was packed tight, and it was simply too hot to hang around without passing out. I couldn’t get into the noise of Lightning Bolt, but it sure had some people in a frenzy. When I left the festival, it was with a grin on my face as Big Boi ripped through “Ghetto Musick” at top speed.
I saw other bands during the weekend, but the last one I’ll mention is the energetic Major Lazer. The hype man and two main dancers certainly had people going, and it was fun to dance to Diplo DJing, but I felt kind of uncomfortable the whole time. You’ve got this white guy, Diplo, presiding over the whole stage, while Skerrit Bwoy and two nameless women dancers, all dressed in very little, shake and scream and dagger below. Major Lazer is the brainchild of Diplo and Switch, two white DJs who decided Jamaican dancehall is where it’s at, and they needed to be in on it but had to have a cartoon black man as their front man. They get all this credit for being DJing geniuses and true to the Jamaican clubbing scene, but while I know that they’ve had a lot of black artists perform vocals on their recordings, it still feels a whole lot like appropriation. “Ooh, look, this is the authentic artistic scene! I will take it now!” It’s the ultimate hipster move.
Also, side note, Diplo’s an asshole. I don’t know if you heard about the M.I.A. interview with the New York Times Magazine last month, but basically, Lynn Hirschberg wrote a long feature article on how M.I.A. is politically naive, musically untalented, and a huge sellout. (Note, M.I.A.’s reaction to the article, Tweeting Hirschberg’s phone number, was not only wrong but dangerous — printing personal information opens people up to physical harm.) For the article, Hirschberg didn’t interview M.I.A.’s current boyfriend at all, but rather her ex, Diplo, who had quite a bit to say on how he basically made the best parts of M.I.A.’s records and she did nothing herself. As commenter Andy at comment 11 on this great Tiger Beatdown post notes, what kind of authority does Diplo have to make these kinds of statements as if they were facts? Why is his the last word as opposed to, I don’t know, M.I.A. herself? And she’s said more than once that she’s upset with Diplo getting all the credit for Kala, as if she weren’t heavily involved in its entire production. (If you’re interested, there are two more really great posts on this issue, one at Pitchfork and one at Change.org.) Diplo’s doing it again on M.I.A.’s latest (which he helped produce), distancing himself from it as it’s less successful than expected, and calling her unmotivated and untalented. Basically, I’d like Diplo to shut his asshole mouth and just make good beats.
Anyway! Pitchfork 2010! It was good times, and I had a lot of fun hanging out with friends, drinking my weight in water, and dancing along to music made for the joy of it. Check back next year to see who sounds good in 2011.
My dearest fellow travelers, never for a moment think that I would abandon you for a whole week. Perish the thought! But I am finding it difficult to marshal both my thoughts and my time this week. So. Post tomorrow! I will talk about my weekend and how good it was, and yet you will not be bored. Huzzah!
Ah, the tourist trap. A danger well-known to the savvy traveler, and one best avoided. It’s usually a cesspool of gaudy, overpriced trinkets, loud fellow tourists and shopkeepers, and somewhere in there, a pretty pitiful excuse for a landmark. Whether it’s a pit stop on a cross-country tour or a planned part of the itinerary, a tourist trap is, to those of us saving pennies and looking for more than plastic souvenirs, a hellish place.
Except when it’s not.
Hear me out, dearest fellow travelers! I’m certainly not saying that I’m planning my next vacation around a day at Wall Drug or an afternoon in Times Square, but the fact is that this is a pretty fantastic world we live in, and in even the most commercialized of places, there’s usually something of real value. Most of the time, this is because the people working the place have some interesting facts to share about it or a friendly perspective on the local culture. As we know, it’s the people who make the difference in where we go and what we see when we get there.
But sometimes it’s the place itself that’s worth seeing, honestly. My best example is Navy Pier. This is a giant pier originally built in 1916 to dock cargo boats and the like, as well as some pleasure boats. It has since grown into Chicago’s #1 tourist attraction, with a giant Ferris wheel (modeled after the first one ever, which debuted at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893), several theaters, restaurants, bars, and docking for many pleasure boats. It is generally considered by most Chicagoans to be a hideous place, only visited when clueless relatives are in town. It has an indoor arcade of shop after cheap shop, a nasty little fast food court, and low ceilings lit by glaring fluorescence. In the summer especially, the entire pier is overrun with screaming children careening all over, drunk parents yelling after them, and slouching teenagers forming impassable knots on the throughways. Everything costs three times what it does in the rest of the city, the lines go on for miles, and it’s not like it’s even a famous or historical site.
Navy Pier: Not So Bad! (photo via americanrail.com)
But! There’s a lot of good stuff going on at Navy Pier, underneath that hokey exterior. In the past few months alone, I’ve gone on a delightful brunch cruise, seen Taming of the Shrew at the Chicago Shakespeare Theater, and watched the acrobats of Cirque Shanghai tumble across the stage at sunset. Granted, these were all made considerably more enjoyable because they were free or nearly free (thank you, friends involved in theater). But the fact that they were there at all is impressive. Sure, the cruise had a cheesy DJ, but the brunch was tasty, and you can’t argue against a turn around the harbor on a bright summer day. The CST does some fantastic shows (even Shakespeare’s most blatantly misogynistic number was acted and costumed well), and the acrobatics of Cirque Shanghai are quite literally breathtaking. Each time I met up with friends to attend these events, I grumbled about getting all the way over there (it’s a two-bus destination) and dealing with the crowds, but once I got there, the crowds weren’t so bad, and the shows and rides were totally worth it.
There’s a lot of neat stuff packed onto that pier, and I’m now less likely to dismiss it as a whole. Some people might call that personal growth. I just call it application of advanced travel skills. You too can learn these skills of finding the fun and interesting wherever you go, and apply them to your own tourist traps.
So tell me, what tourist traps do you know of that don’t suck? Which ones have hidden gems and specific times to go? Which ones would you recommend (even with qualifications) to friends and visitors? Let everyone know in the comments!
Hello, dearest fellow travelers, and welcome to a short post that is INTERACTIVE. Exciting! In the 6+ years I’ve been planning this trip, I’ve received numerous suggestions from many people on specific places I should visit, restaurants I should eat at (or at least food to try), and bedbug-ridden hostels I should absolutely avoid. I welcome all of this advice; I’m fortunate to know so many people who’ve traveled and lived abroad and who have insight into what to do and where to go in places as diverse as Tibet and Cape Town. But it’d sure be helpful to have all that advice in one centralized spot.
Lucky for you and me both, I’m brilliant, so I’ve put together a couple tools to aid in this venture: the Suggestion Box and the Google Map. Head on over to the Suggestion Box (which is now the first tab at the top of the page, on any page on the blog) and leave a comment with tips on what to see, where to stay, etc., and then go to the Google Map and mark the spot. Now I can keep track of all these great suggestions, and when I actually go on my trip, I’m going to mark out my route on the map too, so you’ll be able to see where I go and how I get there in just about real time.
Here’s an example of what the map looks like so far:
See? It’s all bare and sad, with just a few sights and sites, and not a single eatery to be found. Don’t let this map continue in this way — adopt it today and shower it with love and helpful icons.
The A Country a Month project continues apace. You may have noticed that we’ve stopped off in both Australia and New Zealand in various posts. Next up is Indonesia, a country I know nothing about. The lovely Sessily has helped me out by putting together a list of resources on Indonesia, which is below.
I’ve checked out two books from the library to get me started on my research: The Indonesia Reader: History, Culture, Politics, edited by Tineke Hellwig and Eric Tagliacozzo and A History of Modern Indonesia Since c.1200 by M.C. Ricklefs. Feel free to read along if you so desire. I’ll keep you updated on what I learn!
Indonesia
Nonfiction:
A History of Modern Indonesia, Adrian Vickers
The Indonesia Reader: History, Culture, Politics; ed. Tineke Hellwig and Eric Tagliacozzo
In the Time of Madness: Indonesia on the Edge of Chaos, Richard Lloyd Parry
The Dark Side of Paradise: Political Violence in Bali, Geoffrey Robinson
A History of Modern Indonesia Since c.1200, M.C. Ricklefs
Surviving Against the Odds: Village Industry in Indonesia, S Ann Dunham (grad thesis of Obama’s mother)
Gifts of Unknown Things, Lyall Watson (might be really new age-y)
Art in Indonesia: Continuities and Change, Claire Holt
Made in Indonesia: Indonesian Workers Since Suharto, Dan La Botz
Indonesia: Peoples and Histories, Jean Gelman Taylor
Eat Smart in Indonesia: How to Decipher the Menu, Know the Market Foods & Embark on a Tasting Adventure, Joan and David Peterson
One dollar a day: Poverty in Indonesia, Yong Ho Bang
Allah’s Torch: A Report From Behind the Scenes in Asia’s War on Terror, Tracy Dahlby
Fiction:
Pramoedya Ananta Toer:
The Girl from the Coast
Footsteps
The Fugitive
Child of all Nations
House of Glass
All That Is Gone
This Earth of Mankind
It’s Not An All Night Fair
The Mute’s Soliloquy: A Memoir
And the War is Over, Ismail Marahimin
Movies:
Eliana, Eliana (2002) (netflix)
Opera Jawa (2006) (retelling of “The Abduction of Sita” from the Ramayana, uses Javanese song, puppet theater, sacred court dance, gamelan music, and Mozart) (netflix)
Year of Living Dangerously (1982) (Australian movie about Indonesia) (not shot in Indonesia, according to wikipedia)
Music:
Indonesia (World Music Network)
Discover Indonesia: Music of Indonesia (Folkway Records)
Indonesia: Music from the Nonesuch Explorer Series (Nonesuch Records)