York, England; May 9, 2015
Tag Archives: UK
To Battle!
“Let’s go to battle,” Liz said to me. I looked at her askance. As far as I knew, we were not in a fight. Also, she’s a trained fencer and I am not, so she has an unfair advantage if we’re battling. “No,” she said, “Battle, the town built up around the site where the Battle of Hastings took place.” Aha.
The year 1066 is famous in Britain for being the last time England was invaded. Duke William of Normandy came across the Channel, killed King Harold at the Battle of Hastings, and shortly thereafter assumed the crown as King William I of England. He commissioned the Domesday Book, which was the earliest extensive listing of property distribution in the Western world. He spent most of his reign back in France, and left England to his second son upon his death. I sometimes wonder if this is the root of animosity between France and England; England’s thinking, “You conquered us and then couldn’t even be bothered to stay?”
Liz and I took the train down from London, and then made lots of jokes about “striding into Battle” as we walked from the station up to to the English Heritage site. It was fine weather when we were there, but of course it had rained earlier in the day, so our walk around the battlefield was utterly muddy.
The battlefield is just that, a field that slopes up to the ruins of the abbey that William built as atonement for the bloodshed that took place there. There’s a path around the field, with plaques along the way that lead you in chronological order through the battle. I also used the audio guide from the visitor’s center, which was excellent.
We squelched around the battlefield and did a little fake fighting (I was on the losing side–told you she’s a fencer), and then we walked around the abbey. Built as it was on a hillside, the abbey had some odd heights inside it, where the farther up the hill you went, the lower down the ceilings were. I would have thought architects would have compensated for that, but no matter, it just made the ruins a little more mysterious.
After we strode victoriously out of Battle, we took the train down to Hastings, which was a larger town than I’d expected. I walked to the ocean’s edge to put my fingers in the water, and managed to soak my shoes through, making that the second time that day they’d been soaked through.
But never mind that, or the fact that the funicular closed just a few minutes before we got there. Because there was a tiny train, and the tiny train was still running. We gave our money to the kid whose mom ran the train, and then took a comically short ride along the waterfront that was part working docks and part gussied-up tourist attraction.
We ended up near the old town, and found that there was a sort of traveling music show going on. We picked a pub, grabbed a drink, and watched as different acts came through for 20-minute performance slots, before they moved on to the next participating pub. It was mostly folk or new folk,and pretty good, but one woman stood out as sounding like a new Sandy Denny. The whole pub hushed as she sang part of her set a cappella, and it was almost a disappointment when the instruments joined in to back her up. That was a lucky find.
Hastings being a major fishing town, clearly we had to have fish and chips for dinner. But most places were either shut for the night or full to bursting with the music fest crowd. Finally, we found a mom and pop place, and sat down to a good meal served by the most distracted servers I’ve ever encountered. We worked out that they were trying to close for the night, but they kept letting customers in. I wanted to share with them the secret that if they wanted to close, they had to turn people away. Advanced Restaurateuring, right there.
York Vikings Are Just Ducky
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Voting in the UK
I voted in the UK for the first time yesterday (my mom is British so I have citizenship, fortunate me). Everyone told me how easy it was, and that was not a lie.
First, I went online to register. I entered my National Insurance number (which is basically proof of ability to work based on my citizenship; the number is used on tax forms and things). If you don’t have such a number, they have other questions but you may still be able to vote. Then you enter your address so they can determine your constituency–and here’s the big difference from voting in the US.
Back in the US, a lot of states are making it more difficult to vote, by insisting on photo ID, stripping prisoners of the right to vote, insisting students only register in one district, not permitting temporary addresses, etc. In the UK, the registration site explains how to use the right address if you’re in a hospital or prison, if you’re a student, and even if you’re homeless. If you can’t provide an address at all, you can contact your election office and you may still be able to vote. This is great! This is removing barriers to voting rather than creating them. That’s what we should be doing.
For the actual voting, I went to my polling station, which was literally around the corner from my house, stood in line for 7 minutes, gave my name to an election officer who checked it off a list, took my paper to a booth, and put an X next to the candidate of my choice. Dead simple.
The election may not have gone as I’d hoped, but the process of registering and voting gave me hope for how we might help enfranchise people back in the States.
Where in the World Wednesday
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Sunrise, Sunset
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Where in the World Wednesday
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Poldark: A Drinking Game for the BBC Show
BBC is returning to the well with its latest miniseries Poldark; they already made a TV series out of Winston Graham’s novels back in the ’70s, and now it’s being updated for a new generation. Which basically means more shirtlessness from the titular hero. I’m watching the series with my friend and flatmate Liz, and after the first episode we agreed that it’s not really good enough to love wholeheartedly. But if you make it a drinking game, it is utterly delightful. It’s just about finished its run in the UK but is still available online, and it’s going to be broadcast in the US in June. So you still have time to enjoy your own Poldark Imbibe & Jibe experience.
The main thing to keep in mind is that this miniseries is primarily a love letter to the Cornwall countryside, and to Aidan Turner’s smoldering good looks. Lingering shots of both the landscape and Turner’s impressive eyebrows make up a significant percentage of the show. This is not a bad thing.

Dramatic landscape and even more dramatic eyebrows. Image.
A quick synopsis: Ross Poldark (played by Turner) returns to Cornwall in southwestern England after fighting for the redcoats in the American Revolutionary War. He was only fighting because it was either that or prison after bad gambling debts–this is the kind of ne’er-do-well our hero used to be, and who everyone back home remembers. But he’s grown up a bit since losing a war and he’s ready to return home and get to work.
Surprise! His father’s dead and the small estate he owns has fallen into ruin, including the copper mine that used to be how they made money. Everyone thought he was dead, so the love of his life (Elizabeth) is engaged to his cousin (Francis). Things are not looking good for ol’ Ross.
Now that you have the basic premise, here are the rules to the game:
Commuter cliffs: Ross does a lot of galloping along the cliff edge on his horse, to and from his home. We see shots of this more often than strictly necessary for continuity or comprehension of the passage of time, so we must conclude the director figured a few more shots of stunning Cornish countryside wouldn’t do any harm. He’s not wrong. When you see Ross racing along the cliff edge on his horse, yell “commuter!”, drink, and then make clopping noises with your hands until the scene’s over.
Mines: Mining was the major moneymaker in Cornwall for a while, but it was drying up in the late 18th century. Ross takes a big gamble on reopening his father’s copper mine, and mining talk makes up a good portion of the dialogue of the show. Any time someone says “mine” or “mining,” yell “mine!” and take a drink.
Repression: One of the problems with taking this show seriously is that there’s very little chemistry between the actors playing Ross and Elizabeth, our star-crossed lovers. Ross is largely motivated by his desire to remain close to Elizabeth, even if he can’t marry her, and we’re meant to see her torment at having to marry another man because her love returned to her too late. But all they do is stare at each other with slightly pained expressions on their faces. It is unconvincing. Still, they do enough pained expression staring to give us a sense that there are repressed! feelings! going on, so when you sense repression bubbling underneath the surface, yell “stop repressing!” and take a drink. You also get to do this when you notice repression in other situations, like when Francis’s excellent but mistreated sister Verity gets her own bittersweet taste of romance or when Ross’s kitchenmaid Demelza looks adoringly at her employer.
Flashbacks: There aren’t many flashbacks after the first couple episodes, but it’s worth having this category for those few times, because you take a drink and yell “flashback!” then do the wiggly hands and noises they do on Wayne’s World.
Frog man: Francis and Verity’s father is an unpleasant old man who tries various ways to get Ross out of the picture and his own son into top position in the region. He also looks a little like a frog, with protruding eyes and a wide mouth. So whenever he arrives on the scene, do your best “ribbit!” frog impression and take a drink. Don’t do this for the duration of the scene or you will pass out.
Cornish specialty: There are several things specific to Cornwall, or things that we think might be, so any time you see something Cornish, yell “that’s Cornish!” and take a drink. This may include unintelligible accents, a certain kind of wedding dance, or a particular costume. We keep waiting for Cornish pasties to be shown, but sadly haven’t seen one yet. (There was a pie once and we debated whether it was small enough to be a pasty. These are the kind of important intellectual discussions you’ll get into while watching Poldark.)
Soulful cliff stare: Another opportunity to appreciate how gorgeous the landscape is, and also to FEEL your FEELINGS. Any time one of the characters stands at the cliff’s edge and stares out to the far horizon, as the waves of the Atlantic lap upon the shore, yell “that’s soulful!” and take a drink.
Layabout servants: Easily one of our favorite criteria, and the most reliable. Ross’s father had two old servants who prove to be utterly useless, but out of a misguided sense of loyalty and protectionism, Ross keeps them on. Even though they do freakin’ NOTHING. Almost every time a scene opens in the Poldark house, those two are sitting on their butts, or having a quickie in the corner, or drinking their boss’s rum. The one thing you can be sure they’re not doing is working. So when you see them, yell (incredulously and gleefully) “get to work!” and take a drink.
There you have it. Provided you’re just making your way through a glass of wine or beer, you won’t be wasted, but you will be a little tipsy by the end of an episode. What’s more, the often stilted writing and barely fleshed-out characters won’t bother you. That’s how you do the Poldark Imbibe & Jibe. Enjoy!
Living in London Adventures
Happy spring, dearest fellow travelers. For those of us in the northern hemisphere, here’s to longer days and budding greenery all around. Spring came very early for me this year, because England has a more moderate climate than the American Midwest, so in late February temperatures climbed up, trees started putting out little hopeful leaves, and daffodils cropped up en masse in parks and gardens across London. Of course, the flip side of a temperate climate means that now it’s still about that same temperature instead of getting any warmer, and in a few months I’ll be wondering if summer is a thing that actually happens here. But for now, spring!
I’ll be living in London for at least a year, and I’m going to take advantage of that fact as much as I can. Every month, I’m going to at least two new places in London I’ve never been before. Also, every month I’m going to at least one new place outside of London I’ve never been before. I will also try to get to some other European locations as well.
I’ve been busy with a lot of freelance projects the last few months, which is why the writing part of Stowaway has been so light. But now I’ve finished some of those and hope to get back into the swing of things with writing up my travels. I know I still have a few places from Europe 2013 (!) to cover, and much of South America 2014, and of course what I’ve been up to while in England.
So there’s much to do and time enough to do it in. Please continue to comment, and share on Facebook and Twitter (I’m @LisaStowaway). And if you’re coming through London, let me know–we can meet for a pint or a cup of tea.




























